So whaddya think this means?Okay, so it means no honking. Maybe this is obvious. But when we first saw it, we were trying to picture the council meeting which could have instigated such a sign:

“I’m serious, Sezgin, I’ve had enough of that ridiculous orchestral rubbish and I want something done about it!”

“Now, Erkan, there’s no reason to get all worked up about a little trumpet playing.”

“He’s got a point,” said Ibrahim. “After fifty-seven renditions of the theme from Lawrence of Arabia, even music connoisseurs have a limit . .”

“Okay, okay, I hear what you’re saying,” said Sezgin. “I’ll get a few signs up and give word to the band director at Izmir Musical Academy to give it a rest.”

Our hostel hostess Yoomi, in Pamukkale was a fabulous cook and a motherly presence. I”ll miss her. (Photo by Michael)

What’s that language at the top right?????

“Merhaba,” I say to the bartender.He smiles wide, ready to take my request, customer service hugging him like an aura.“Do you have a pen and a paper?” I ask in English, following Michael’s advice to at least begin communication in full sentences rather than the toddler style of pointing and blurting.But he doesn’t speak any English and shakes his head in confusion. No problem. I try again with pantomime by drawing a square on the bar, then pretending to write something upon it.Aha! He seems to say, a look of recognition on his face. And promptly brings me the salt.I laught pretty loud before I just start looking for a pencil behind the bar and quickly find one.And I thought I was good at charades.

Sitting here talking about love life issues. Just ordered a Dominos pizza. Celine Dion’s French voice is in the air.

But first having cigarettes and coffee. Tea will be after the meal. How does anyone sleep here?

When Sez’s couchsurfing profile told me that his motto in life was: “take the blue pill,” I knew he would be a good host. But I had no idea what we were in for. By day, while Sez went to work, we read, wrote, cooked and wandered his neighborhood of apartments, patisseries and dirt soccer fields. When he returned home, we fell into conversation about Bush, the PKK (see video here) and the troubles of his Iranian friend, Sara. He played Arabesque Turkish love songs for us. His friend Erkan improved his English. We taught him the words to They Might Be Giants rendition of the Istanbul-Constantinople song.

One night, we saw live Turkish music, clapping along with immersion beneath the ceiling-wrapped vines of tulip lights, green wavy walls and round tables of testosterone. We drank Tuborg and took pictures. We ate a traditional cig kufte appetizer of spicy raw meat sprinkled with lemon and wrapped in a lettuce leaf. And then, we were forced to sing what words we knew of Hotel California into a microphone. In front of the bar.

Here in Denizli, where he lived, there was nothing to see. He knew that. We knew that. But we didn’t care. We were interested in speaking with the real Turkish people about life. What they ate for breakfast (olives, bread, jam). How much vacation they got (two weeks). How they dated (a lot of very formal set ups).

And even Lonely Planet, the bible of all guidebooks, with its boxed vignettes of anecdotes about regional cuisine and historical legends, has become, shall we say, “quaint” after the cultural exchange which is possible from couchsurfing. . . .

So many experiences, so little time. . . .six months will never be enough.

1. Seeing a live and very unruly black ram led out of the cargo hold of a passenger bus.
2. Basking in the inspirational energy of a Ani Pierpont who just wrote Sinan Diaryz—a walking tour book of Istanbul’s Ottoman architecture. God, I miss American female bonding.
3. Watching Turkish woman avoid “regular” toilets in favor of the stand-up squat variety. But, I guess when you’ve been going touch-less you’re whole life, a plastic seat seems gross. (Yes, Christine, of course I’m hovering!)
4. Learning what a real supernova is.
5. Attempting to sink into the floor as a violent movie called “The Marine” began playing on a bus ride through Turkey.
6. Having a conversation about time machines with Michael over our umpteenth (Mom, this is your word!) donner kebab and ayran (something like buttermilk).
7. Time spent with Kirdir–the rug-selling, bike-renting, triathlon-coaching guy with a moustache.
8. Being served coffee, water, tea and cookies. On a bus. Does Greyhound do this?
9. The inescapable irony of having to explain that we were in the “Peace Corps”, to Turkish people, at this present time.
10. Joking with Sez, our second Turkish couchsurfing host, about the Seinfeld Soup Nazi.

For our first couchsurfing experience, we stayed with Meriç (pronounced Merich) in Bursa. He lived in a farm of landscaped, pastel apartment buildings in the suburbs. He commuted to work, drove downtown to go bar-hopping, ate lunch and dinner in a company food court and shopped at a massive grocery store built just for his subdivision. The grocery store looked a lot like Albertsons. If it weren’t for the flags, it could have been any American suburb.

Honest, sincere and accommodating, Meriç was an angelic host. He took us to dinner, drove us around, helped us fax and print and picked us up from the ferry. We stayed two nights, but he would have let us sleep in his college-like flat for a week. Mer?ç and his easy-going, Facebook-belonging friends drank wheat beer and smoked Marlboro Lights. So I suppose I shouldn’t have been surprised when they said to us, upon hearing about our Peace Corps service and future plans: But what about security? What about your future? Aren’t you worried? How could you just abandon your jobs? And Syria? Be careful!The same comments we get from fellow Americans.You just never know what you’re gonna get. . .