White Baboon

a travel anthology chronicling the trips of three women

Archive for May, 2008

Coffee, Olives & Cats

Written by andrea on May 2nd, 2008 | Filed under: supersoul

You never know what travel might do to you. I mean, yeah, all that deep stuff. But even my tastes are changing.

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(Photo by Hurina)

Take coffee. Somehow, back in the early 90s, when putting a Starbucks in a Starbucks was a funny joke, I just never needed the caffeine. And who wanted something bitter? Blech. But it was also about the morning ritual. I just couldn’t be bothered. In fact, I frequently wondered how people could spend precious time and dollars on mere liquid with a clearly marketeered mocha-triple-blend-Indochina title. But, I’ve come around. Sugar, milk, and the schwe schwe (slowly slowly) inshallah (God Willing) Middle East attitude, is making me take time to stop and drink the coffee. And it tastes good.

Olives. In Greece, Andy turned me onto the garlic-stuffed variety. Then I found them bursting with almonds. In Turkey, there was the olive farm. It seems only right to consume the product you grow, right? My father was a corn and soybean farmer for a fifteen years. While his kind of corn fed mainly cattle, I took pride in consuming the little yellow kernels off the cob, as if I was somehow helping to earn our living. So when picking them by day, I knew that all olives, which lets face it, are really just salt and oil dressed up in a silky cape, must become a part of my life. And oh, how they have.

Cats. When I was 7 or 8, I got bit by a cat. Looking back, I see that this particular cat was tired of my endless game called “I-want-to-hold-you. No-I-REALLY-want-to-hold-you.” But I avoided cats from then on. A decade later, my roommate in college, as part of joint custody with an ex-boyfriend, exposed me to Alex, the evil of all felines. Likely due to kittyhood trauma, this cat was fearless and defensive 24/7. A hisser and a scratcher, at parties, she’d perch on the arm of the couch and swat at people walking by. What’s hard to believe is that my roommate then married my brother and so this cat has become part of my FAMILY! But no matter. From this, I entered into a full-on cat-phobia, including nightmares. If anyone argued, pop culture was on my side. From Lady and the Tramp to Pet Cemetery, the cat had been typecast as a villain who was always picking on the dumb blonde dog long ago.

But at the olive farm in Turkey, for reasons a therapist will one day determine, I withdrew from my usual position within the skin of the social scene and found connection and reassurance with fur. I felt more at one with the animals. In particular, petting the cat, this self-sufficient creature which cleaned itself constantly (when I was, at the time, relegated to just a few showers a week,) seemed like a win-win situation. Somehow, my need to nurture finally swelled past human relationships.

However, upon wandering the streets of foreign cities ever since, and witnessing just how defensive cats are, especially compared to their canine counterpart, I realize that what I’ve never liked about cats was what I’ve never liked about myself. They’re always freaking out as if every passing human is plotting to kill them or they’re not gonna get enough milk. It’s as if I have realized, noting the goodwill and generosity of every stranger, that the world is a good place. That I shouldn’t be a fighter, but a lover. And after crossing that line, I looked back to the see the cold, bitchy cat, armor still strapped across its fur, paws up, ready for a rumble. So I went back, scooped it into my arms for life and consider it my duty to beckon this beast toward a better place.


On the Edge of Something

Written by andrea on May 2nd, 2008 | Filed under: Jordan, WTF, whining

The other day we realized that we’d hit hotel bottom here in Amman.

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Besides the piles of decade-old dirt in the corners, the obscene toilet, and the smelly blankets, its usually about 50 degrees in our room. To combat the cold, we’ve been sleeping together in one very small bed to keep warm. Which would be a good idea, except that due to our two-inch thick, malformed mattress, it’s like sleeping in a bathtub, with both side at a 70 degree slope. The owner, gold-toothed Tony, with his cardigan, Palestinian symbolizing keyeffieh and New York baseball camp shuffles around with his father and another unidentified mustachioed man. Mealy but mellow and always acting as though he just smoked a doobie, Tony embodies flow. Which would be great if the whole place didn’t have such a nursing home feel to it. Or if he didn’t tell smokers it was okay to “ash on the floor”. Or if the alley its in didn’t include a bum hangout.

But here we are, at $10 a night in the Cliff hole hotel, boiling eggs, drinking Nescafe coffee, sleeping in our clothes and finding a sliver of sunlight to sit in as we start the day. And we’re still lovin’ this life, always ready to get on the road again, goin’ places that we’ve never been, seeing places that we’ll never see again. (We usually can’t wait) to get on the road again.

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(Graphic compliments of the graphic wizardess and new mother, Keri Smith at Wish Jar)

Willie Nelson. . . .Herman Hess, maybe mixing icons is a little like mixing metaphors. Just another rule I’m choosing to break.

We’re alive and doing fab. Please don’t anyone worry about a thing.


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